The Fox Head Inn 

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, under the capable hands of Chef Robert Ramsey, has been transformed from a quaint country restaurant to a very fine dining establishment. Now minutes away from the megabusiness parks in the West End, the Fox Head is within easy reach of corporate heads who cut deals along with their venison, as well as those who come to celebrate special occasions. And it's worth a pleasant drive from the city to spend an evening celebrating good food. The Fox Head offers a five-course fixed-price dinner ($53 without wine and gratuity) along with little culinary surprises to make it even more interesting. After a dinner there in the spring, at which the four of us barely left a morsel, we were amazed to find that we were not stuffed but pleasantly right with the world.

The old farmhouse which houses the Fox Head Inn is handsomely decorated and plushly comfortable, and a shady terrace out front is inviting for a preliminary drink on a pleasant summer evening. You will find, too, that the service is as impeccable as the food. Ramsey offers only a few choices among the five courses, but you'll probably have a dilemma deciding which to turn down. Luxury is a dangerous addiction.

1840 Manakin Road 784-5126

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