According to culinary historian Deb Freeman, Virginia is the birthplace of Southern staples from fried chicken to barbecue. American beer has its roots here, too: the earliest record of brewing in the country dates to 1587 in the Virginia colony.
Centuries later, Richmond has emerged as a culinary destination and a beer capital of the South. And, over time, the affinity for pairing classic Southern fare with a crisp beer has remained. For those seeking the right draft to complement shrimp and grits or a perfectly fried chicken thigh, Blackwell & Brainstorm Brewhouse — located inside Bolo’s Eatery — is the place to be.
Richmond’s only majority Black-owned brewery, Brainstorm was created by co-founders CM Bryant and Darryl Puller after years of circling each other in the local craft scene. Bryant is, to put it plainly, a beer nerd. An early adopter of the craft movement, he evolved into an aficionado who kept tabs on major releases, traversed beer shares and eventually launched his own beer merchandising company.
Puller, Brainstorm’s lead brewer, is the beer alchemist. He began obsessing over the chemistry of the craft in his garage 15 years ago and brewed under the tutelage of local legends like The Answer’s Brandon Tolbert (rather than a formal apprenticeship, Puller categorizes this time as keeping Tolbert company while he brewed, asking a stream of questions).
Eventually, the finesse of Puller’s brews made Bryant a fan.
“I met Darryl through his beer,” Bryant says. “He just wanted to brew these big, hype beers, and he succeeded. He was at festivals and beer shares where he was up next to big players in the game, and he was shining right alongside them.”
The two first officially connected in 2015, but it wasn’t until 2024 that they made their next major move: officially creating a brewery. In collaboration with Bill Cavender, owner of Black Heath Meadery in Scott’s Addition, Brainstorm Brewhouse launched via Black Heath’s production facility and taproom. They debuted with three pours, including their award-winning Kiss of Chocolate lager. The lean launch allowed the founders to prioritize product quality while leaning into Richmond palates.
“My motto has always been, ‘Let the beer build the business,’” Puller says. “Money was tight, but we were able to create a following that not only wanted the beer but, more importantly, wanted to support us.”
The experience helped the duo refine their ability to quench local thirsts — and fortunately, Richmonders have diverse tastes.
“IPAs are huge in Richmond; West Coast is coming back,” Bryant says. “People are also asking for classic styles — nice brown ales and amber ales. They’re excited about those because it’s a change from the norm. We’re making sure we’re in tune with what people are asking for.”
It’s not an easy time to be in the craft beer business, which continues to experience a reset within a shifting market. In contrast to the industry’s 2010s boom, when the number of craft breweries in the country went from roughly 1,500 in 2010 to around 9,500 in 2020 — 2025 marked the second year in a row that more craft breweries closed than opened.
Breweries must adapt to survive, maneuvering through everything from changing consumer tastes to the impacts of inflation. For Brainstorm, becoming a destination was key, and incorporating food was top of mind. Fortunately, an auspicious partnership was on the horizon.
Dogtown Brewing closed in 2020 and sat empty until last year, when Richmond chef Mike Lindsey’s Lindsey Food Group bought the space to open Bolo’s Eatery. Named after Lindsey’s father, the restaurant plays to the land and sea fare of Southern cuisine, with a particular focus on fried chicken and oysters.
Inside the Manchester space on Hull Street, brewing equipment was still in place. Lindsey told Axios he considered teaching himself to brew. Then, he decided to check out Brainstorm.
“He came into the taproom at Black Heath and told us he wanted to open up this brewery restaurant,” Bryant recalls. “We just did what we’d normally do: sling beers, hang out. I thought this would be just a quick meet-and-greet, but [Lindsey and his wife, Kimberly Love-Lindsey] ended up hanging out for like, two-and-a-half hours. It was awesome.”
The meeting led to an official partnership, and the move to Bolo’s upgraded Brainstorm from a 2.5-barrel system to a 15-barrel system, opening the floodgates for the team to expand its repertoire.
“With 20 taps to fill, I get to get really creative,” Puller says. “We can make a lot of beer now, so I can knock those core beers out and then flesh out some of the more intricate ideas I have.”
“It’s a more mature, dynamic system that lets us be more intentional with what we brew and how we brew it,” Bryant adds. “The space is insulated and air-controlled, which helps us overcome how very hot summers and very cold winters impact the final product. With so many tanks, we can also do many different styles all at once, at a higher volume.”
Officially kicking off inside Bolo’s in 2025, Brainstorm is now experimenting with pairing the perfect draft pour with menu items like decadent Oysters Blackwell with creamed collards and slab bacon, or chicken and cornbread waffles dressed with honey butter. The process is an ongoing conversation with Bolo’s kitchen to see how the flavors of Southern comfort dovetail with the complex notes of Brainstorm’s IPAs and ales.
As Brainstorm settles into its high-volume system and new home, the focus remains exactly where it started: on the integrity of what’s in the glass.
“My goal is to make everything solid,” Puller says. “I believe as long as the beer is good, people will come.”
Brainstorm Brewhouse is located inside Bolo’s Eatery at 1209 Hull St. Road. They’re open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Learn more at boloseatery.com.
