Fortunately dim sum isn’t just about tea anymore; the restaurant has just installed a small yet brilliant list of wines. Their white wine by the glass is an Alsatian pinot blanc by Wolfberger, vintage 2000. It is dry, fruity, light and crisp with no oak. It accompanies the dim sum yet doesn’t mask or interfere with the delicate flavors.

Here comes the cart now: Hargow is a transparent dumpling stuffed with shrimp, it is delicious. Siumai is a bun filled with pork, its texture is pillow-like and with the pork resembling barbeque. The contrast of the warm dish with the icy wine is terrific.

Tsuenfun is steamed rice dough that is silken, transparent and stuffed with minced beef. Fanquo are flat dumplings stuffed with pork, mushrooms and bamboo shoots. Bamboo shoots with pinot blanc — now there’s a combination. — Layne Witherell