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wine & Dine: Tan A 

The Chinese and Thai okras are unmistakably authentic. Kim Chee, the Korean staple, that hot spicy pickled cabbage, is plentiful in large jars. This is the only grocery store where the smell of incense abounds.

Tan A doesn't stock wine as yet, but a good pick with the dim sum is Beringer Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2000, $14. It is sturdy enough for the shrimp and crab and light enough for the veggies. Since there is very little oak flavor here, the fruit balances beautifully with the delicious morsels. As for the incense, you have to supply that yourself. — Layne Witherell



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