What to Serve with Proven‡al-style food? Proven‡al wines, of course. 

The Wines of Provence

Ahhhhh, Provence. The land of Cezanne, lavender, bouillabaisse and lemons as sweet as oranges. There's also wine; wine that's as distinctive and enjoyable as the region itself. The South of France has plenty of sun, so grapes grow happily there. Here are some wines to try as the weather warms and as local produce tempts the cook to make garlicky roast chicken and rosemary-stuffed lamb.

1996 Bandol Domaine Tempier, $25.99. Bandol, a coastal resort town, produces memorable reds, indeed. This garnet-colored wine has toffee hints in the nose which lead into plummy flavors on the palate. Medium-bodied and slightly chewy in texture, it's delicious with butterflied leg of lamb or steaks on the grill.

1997 Chteau St. Martin de la Garrigue, $12.99. Robust melon aromas mingle with crisp, grassy notes in the nose of this medium-bodied white wine. Clean and vibrant, it's perfect with simply prepared fish or grilled chicken breasts.

1997 Domaine la Ferme Blanche Cassis, $12.99. Cassis is a village that overlooks the Mediterranean, and the white wine made there is extraordinary with fish and seafood. This crisp, rather citrusy white is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced; it's exceptional with steamed or grilled shellfish or simply prepared chicken.

1997 Tavel Domaine de la Mordorée, $12.99. From the southern Rh“ne, this organically made rosé is dry, easygoing; delightful with salads, veggie burgers and most picnic fare.

1996 Domaine la Tour Vieille Banyuls, $16.99. This dessert wine has aromas of cotton-candy and flavors of ripe peaches and plums. Keep this garnet-colored wine slightly cool, and pour it after dinner with plain cake, cookies or simply a bowl of toasted walnuts.

1996 Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, $10.99 per .75 ml. bottle. Deliciously succulent, with nuances of honeysuckle and citrus, this fortified white wine made from Muscat grapes can be served as an aperitif (as it is in Provence) or for

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