The food may stay the same, but the wine doesn't have to. 

What Wine With The Bird?

While the menu for Thanksgiving may get slightly tweaked every now and then (sweet potatoes instead of new potatoes, for example), the basics usually don't change: Turkey and gravy, cranberry sauce, dressing or stuffing, something green, some kind of roll or bread, and pumpkin, apple or pecan pie. It's a tradition most of us look forward to all year long. But there's no rule that says the wines must be the same year after year. Since the menu has varied flavors (tangy cranberries, rich gravy, mild turkey), the wines can be varied, too. Why not open several bottles, place them right on the table, and let each guest pour to his or her liking? Some suggestions: 1992 Taittinger Brut Champagne, $ 50. A fine, elegant French bubbly with a creamy texture and toasty finish. It's sure to make any gathering festive. If you have trouble finding the 1992, look for the 1995, which is similar in style; it's also $50. 1996 Chteau Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon, Winemaker's Reserve, $ 35. A mouth-filling, California red with deep flavors of tobacco, chocolate and blackberries. An excellent choice if your groaning board also includes wild game. 1997 Lorane Valley Pinot Noir, $ 11.95. From Oregon, this well-priced, garnet-colored wine has a buttery nose, flavors of ripe plum and cherry, and a medium-light texture. It's a lovely match to the delicate flavors of slow-cooked turkey and cornbread dressing. 1999 Chteau St. Jean Fumé Blanc, Sonoma Country, $ 13. Crisp and refreshing, this Sauvignon Blanc from California is nicely balanced and cuts through the richness of dressings made with sausages. 1998 Antonin Rodet Chteau de Rully, $18.99. This 100-percent Chardonnay from France is aromatic, tangy and crisp, and is layered with flavors of pear, hazelnut and fresh fig. Pour it as an apéritif, or with the bird itself. 2000 Beringer Nouveau, $8. A truly seasonal wine (just released from this year's harvest), this California nouveau is tart, youthful and fun. Drink it lightly chilled. 1999 Pellegrino Moscato de Pantelleria, $ 18. A straw-colored dessert wine made on the island of Pantelleria, not far from Sicily. It has luscious aromas of honey and oranges, and is delicious lightly chilled with a slice of pumpkin pie or sweet potato

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