Short Order 

This Week: Butt Ugly Biscuits and Bourdain's vision for food hawkers

click to enlarge food30_bisquit_300.jpg

Butt Ugly
The photo's worth a thousand calories, and in this case, breakfast at the Ugly Biscuit entirely deserves its name. You may have read some witty online reviews of this newish business at 10100 Midlothian Turnpike in a former Bullets drive-through. Ugly Biscuit's mothership in Fairhope, Ala., opened in 1994, serving made-from-scratch biscuits stuffed with all the ingredients and then cooked. In this case, that's three kinds of sausage, bacon, egg and cheese for $2.62. The Ugly also serves pancakes, barbecue, burgers, dogs and sides, for takeout or outside tables only. Open daily until 2 p.m. 320-0731.

Every night but Sunday: Pescados China Street has had folks lining up at the door since it opened last month, with the waits well-rewarded by creative, flavorful fare and a well-priced wine list, among other attributes. We've posted the restaurant's hours incorrectly, however. It's open Monday through Saturday from 4:30 p.m. pescadoschinastreet.com.

Summer at Julep's: Hanover tomatoes take a turn on the summer menu at Julep's New Southern Cuisine in Shockoe Bottom. They're served in a salad with house-made mozzarella, prosciutto and Vidalia onions; spicy lobster spring rolls with chipotle-lime aioli are among new options on the appetizer list. The restaurant just won a Wine Spectator award of excellence and is known for its craft cocktails and refined service. juleps.net.

Kitchen switch-up: The pizzas remain, but most of the first-draft menu at the Fan's Bellytimber Tavern is getting an overhaul, says co-owner Randy O'Dell. The business is open for lunch and dinner daily. bellytimbertavern.com.

Chicken Mania: South Siders are watching with some amazement as a dingy rancher that once held Kebryon's, among other food businesses, becomes something else entirely. A two-story construction project promises a new enterprise, Chicken Mania, at Forest Hill Avenue and Grantwood Road.

Bourdain opines: In his new book, “Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook,” Anthony Bourdain suggests a food enterprise that could be of great interest in Richmond and elsewhere:

“The Asian-style food court/hawker center … is way overdue for an appearance (on a large scale) in America. Scores of inexpensive one-chef/one-specialty businesses (basically, food stalls) clustered around a “court” of shared tables. When will some shrewd and civic-minded investors (perhaps in tandem with their city governments) put aside some parking lot-size spaces (near commercial districts) where operators from many lands can sell their wares? Sharing tables, as in classic fast-food courts? … Food preparation areas could be enclosed, as they are in Singapore, so food handling and sanitation issues can hardly be an unsolvable impediment. … The hawker center could be an answered prayer for every hard-pressed office worker in a hurry, every blue-collar worker on a budget, every cop on a lunch hour, as well as obsessive foodies at every income level. ‘Authenticity'; artisanship; freshness; incredible, unheard-of variety — and for cheap? All under one roof? This, let us hope, is at least part of our future. …”

Readers, could this be feasible and successful in Richmond?

Have a tip about the Richmond restaurant scene?  Send it to shortorder@styleweekly.com.



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