Favorite

Review: Station 2 and Burgerworks 

Take a good idea and try it twice.

click to enlarge George Orwell gets his own burger at Station 2 in Shockoe Bottom. It stacks fried eggs, bacon, mozzarella and mayo on Texas toast. - SCOTT ELMQUIST
  • Scott Elmquist
  • George Orwell gets his own burger at Station 2 in Shockoe Bottom. It stacks fried eggs, bacon, mozzarella and mayo on Texas toast.

I for one was excited about our last home-grown burger joint. I liked the premise — local, natural, nonhormonal meat with local additions served by locals. While it translated to a pricier burger, it felt better. Of course, after the, uh, boom, that idea left a sour taste in many people’s mouths. Enter Station 2 and Burgerworks. Mere months after the explosive closing of one burger place, two more open following close in the conceptual footpath.

Located downtown in a renovated firehouse, the airy space that is Station 2 is almost a burger-sports bar — all it needs are a few more TVs and some education for sports fans about local beers and the natural Buffalo Creek beef. Charlottesville’s Blue Mountain Uber-Pils ($6) makes a great sidekick to the George Orwell burger ($10). A couple of fried eggs and bacon with askew mozzarella top this smallish patty, and the healthy dose of mayonnaise on the thick Texas toast compounds the need to run a couple of miles afterwards. The New Mexico burger ($9) is all about the whole smoky roasted green chile, and the bacon and thick slice of pepper-jack cheese.

For now, steer clear of the char-grilled wings. After the waitress explains their lengthy cooking process, we expect to get a festival over an open flame char. We’re surprised to receive hot and spicy Asian wings ($7) that taste manufactured and are missing the hot and the Asian. Potato shingles ($4) are one baked potato, if that, sliced thinly. On one occasion, the appetizer reaches the table underdone, and on another, potato-chip crispy. An order of loaded french fries ($7) is delicious but leaves us wondering where the remainder of the dish is. But with a little help from a Naughty Girl Scout ($7), an adult milkshake with vanilla ice cream, crème de menthe, Irish cream, crème de cacao and a few well-placed chocolate chips, the missing french fries are forgotten.

click to enlarge The BBQ bison burger at Henrico’s new Burgerworks packs beef and barbecue, onion rings and cheddar on a bun. - SCOTT ELMQUIST
  • Scott Elmquist
  • The BBQ bison burger at Henrico’s new Burgerworks packs beef and barbecue, onion rings and cheddar on a bun.

Several miles west, Burgerworks is doing the same idea differently. All-natural beef is a mix of chuck, short rib and brisket. Milkshakes are thick but all kid-friendly. A confusing ordering system works against this lunch-heavy establishment, but once it’s all sorted out, eat-in will be an adventure and take-out will be a better idea until the rush is over about 2 p.m.

The BBQ bison burger at $10.99 is expensive but excellent. Something clicks between dill pickles, barbecue, white cheddar and the large bison patty. If it weren’t so pricey, I would eat it every week. If you are more of a beef traditionalist, the S.O.B ($7.99) is a good Southwestern rendition. Tri-colored tortilla strips, fresh jalapenos and house-made guacamole add messy flavor to a burger that is commendable.

Sides are equally dead-on. Hand-breaded onion rings ($3.99), are thin and sweet. Salty, almost-translucent pickle slices ($3.99) are lightly fried in the same house buttermilk batter. French fries ($2.99) are hand cut daily and boardwalk style. Options for a very greasy Parmesan tossing ($3.49), which is at times more of a shellacking, or the ubiquitous bacon and cheddar ($5.49) are large enough portions to share.

Each place is hopping with business. Service at Station 2 is off-the-charts efficient. With a little more time, Burgerworks should find its service groove, its liquor license and maybe a fax machine for menu sharing — and I’m hoping a burger happy hour too. S

Station 2
2016 E. Main St.
249-4702
Open daily 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.
station2richmond.com

Burgerworks
10321 W. Broad St.
Glen Allen 23060
527-2747
Monday – Thursday 11 a.m. - 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Favorite

Comments (4)

Showing 1-4 of 4

Add a comment

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-4 of 4

Add a comment

  • Re: Sugary Raisins and Tiny Hams: 12 Interesting Finds at Aldi and Lidl

    • This post is actually kind of offensive to those who depend on places like Aldi…

    • on September 19, 2017
  • Re: Bogart's in the Fan closing Dec. 31

    • I loved Bogart's. The Alpine Martin was my favorite. Why did they move? Bad move…

    • on September 18, 2017
  • Re: This Virginia Brewery Wants Your Pumpkin-Spice Beer ... So It Can Pour It Down the Drain

    • How does that saying go....You can take the girl/boy out of "CALIFORNIA" but you can't…

    • on September 17, 2017
  • More »
  • More by Robey Martin

    • 2015 State of the Plate

      2015 State of the Plate

      Favorite dishes, unsung heroes and the rise of hospitality in Richmond. Plus, why our Restaurant of the Year is Metzger Bar & Butchery.
      • Mar 10, 2015
    • Single-Minded Focus

      Single-Minded Focus

      The old Phil's Continental Lounge will transform into Jack Brown's Beer & Burger Joint in March.
      • Feb 20, 2015
    • Noodles Galore

      Noodles Galore

      Spiral Noodle is slated for opening this spring in the old Yapple spot.
      • Feb 19, 2015
    • More »

    Copyright © 2017 Style Weekly
    Richmond's alternative for news, arts, culture and opinion
    All rights reserved
    Powered by Foundation