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, in Carytown's church gone haute, may be the toughest reservation in town — especially on a weekend. Chef-owner Dale Reitzer, chosen by Food & Wine magazine as one of the 1999 Best New Chefs in America, has hardly rested on his laurels, has rather hardly rested at all. But hard work is perhaps the first ingredient for success. His partners, wife Aline and Jim O'Toole, capably oversee the dining areas where service is knowledgeable and polished.

Reitzer's style is to take impeccably fresh ingredients and to enhance them only enough to let the natural flavors speak for themselves. His strong suit is fish and seafood and, if you aren't a big fan of either, he may make you a convert. But meat and poultry are given equally thoughtful treatments and are beautifully complemented with garden-fresh vegetables and fruits.

The room isn't wonderful but it has been enhanced with good lighting and handsome accessories. The dining portico high above Cary Street is a perfect place for a summer dinner. The essence of elegance may be simplicity. Reitzer makes a good case for this on the plates he sends from the kitchen.

3325 W. Cary St. 354-6060

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