Pork Paradise

Hots and Brats from The Mayor Meats opens in the former home of Carytown Cupcakes.

The newly opened Hots and Brats (3111 W Cary St.) may be the culmination of Kyle Morse’s longtime dream of a permanent home for his small-batch sausages and other butchering passions, but since the combination restaurant and shop opened last week, French fries have been stealing the show.

Influencers have proclaimed them the best fries they’ve ever tried and Morse is getting texts from friends raving about the fries first, then his delicious sausages. The crispy, slightly crunchy spuds fall somewhere between a shoestring and a steak fry—they are skin-on and fried fresh to order. “I’m not making them and letting them sit,” he said. “They’re hot and ready and fresh, salted but not overly, and made with fresh oil.” Beyond that, the formula is his special secret.

Proper Curry: Curry sausage, French fries and curry ketchup.

Morse may seem nonchalant, but we have a feeling those fries have been carefully perfected, like the rest of his business plan. Morse developed a passion for butchering in culinary school and got into sausage making when serving as head butcher at The Breslin in New York City. After working throughout New York City restaurants, he moved to Richmond in 2018 when his wife got a job as a professor at Virginia Commonwealth University.

The Mayor Meats small-batch sausage company focusing on sustainably sourced meats launched in 2019, and Morse spent the next five years expanding and perfecting his offerings, which range from classic garlic and hot Italian sausage to Portuguese Linguica and seasonal specials like ramp sausage. They can be found at farmers’ markets, in Krogers around Virginia, in local shops like Ellwood Thompson’s and Stella’s Grocery, as well as on menus at restaurants like Zorch Pizza and Pizza Bones.

Hots and Brats owner Kyle Morse says his “French fries” have been stealing the show lately.

He continued to cook his sausage for events as well and in in 2023 he officially launched Hots & Brats, a pop-up featuring freshly cooked sausages and antibiotic-free, pasture-raised wagyu beef dogs with traditional and inventive toppings.

But Morse has always been keeping an eye out for the right storefront. And earlier this year, he received a phone call from Kevin Liu, co-owner of the Jasper, Emerald Lounge, the Tin Pan and Slurp! Ramen, about the old Carytown Cupcakes space. The two had collaborated on pop-ups at The Jasper in the past and the space was right for Morse’s porky plans.

Hots and Brats opened last week with a simple, elegant vibe. Classic black, white and red tones, a big chalkboard for specials and checkered floors give an old-school butcher shop vibe, while a long marbleized bar invites patrons to sidle up for a beer or settle in for a solo lunch.

Plain wagyu dog

The main menu is streamlined and focused on a selection of the Mayor Meats sausages in varieties alongside wagyu beef hot dogs with toppings like chili and cheese or kimchi. You can add simple toppings like caramelized onions or grain mustard and local sauerkraut. Sides include the already-famous French fries, salad or chips.

For more out-of-the-box selections, check out the big chalkboard behind the bar. The first week’s specials included the Mayor’s own currywurst sausage served over French fries with a zippy, house-made curry ketchup that was so popular it’ll likely be moving to the regular menu. Other options included a BLT hot dog, a Reuben hot dog, and an andouille sausage topped with bacon, greens, roasted red pepper and lemon-vinaigrette on a house-made bun.

There’s also a few draft beers, a selection of canned and bottled ciders, beers and cocktails, wines by the class and can, and Boylan’s sodas. The focus is on simple dishes that can be prepared quickly, so you can stop in for a quick meal without breaking the bank.

At the back of the restaurant, you’ll see glass cases—currently they are filled with retail sausage, but in the coming weeks look for more fresh pork options as Morse starts bringing in and breaking down Autumn Olive Farms whole hogs. Think pork chops, butt roasts, shoulder roasts, hams, house-made bacon and pates. Morse is even toying with tiny meat pies in the shape of cupcakes as a nod to the previous business.

Also look for streamlined dinner specials like “a heritage breed pork chop with a very simple accoutrement at an approachable price point,” as the business expands. You’ll also likely see pop-up dinner events—Morse still needs to flex those chef skills—collaborations with the Jasper, breakfast and brunch.

Right now, Hots and Brats is open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. for dine-in and to-go orders. 

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