Don’t let their size fool you. While they might only be about two inches tall, microgreens have revolutionized the culinary world, become a mighty superfood and ushered in a new wave of farming. The edible young seedlings are a fascinating specimen that many in the area offer the community.
Justin Upshaw is one. The founder of EssentialRVA Microgreens, Upshaw’s selections can be found throughout Richmond, including at St. Stephen’s and Birdhouse farmers’ markets.
This urban farmer primarily focuses on sunflower, broccoli, radish and mustard microgreens. “I grow based on nutritional diversity and feel those four greens cover nutrition bases,” he says. Arugula, peas, leeks and cilantro will occasionally be available.
Upshaw’s journey into microgreens was somewhat of an accident. After leaving for almost a year to live in Arizona, this lifelong Richmonder returned in 2019 with a desire to try growing something, perhaps an ode to his grandfather’s garden he fondly remembers. A lack of space was a problem though, leading him to research some potential ideas.
“That’s how I ran into microgreens,” he says. “It just happened; Dollar Tree had microgreen seeds and soil around March and I grew some with cheap Amazon lights.”
After tasting the experimental batch, Upshaw was hooked and wanted to share the joys of microgreens with others. He dabbled a bit at Carytown Market in May 2021, and by the end of the year, his business officially took off.
One of the secrets to Upshaw’s microgreens is ensuring there’s a thriving soil filled with nutritional microbes. “It helps create sturdier, healthier plants providing more nutrition to you in the end game,” he says.
While Upshaw has decided to go more remote with his work, he’s still dedicated to being in the community with periodic pop-ups and classes. It’s all in an effort to help transform Richmond into a healthier, sustainable and more equitable place.
But Upshaw isn’t the only one intrigued by such a crop. Off in Maidens [in Goochland County], James Hammond and Jodi Strohmayer run The Sowers’ Row, an organic and regenerative farm specializing in microgreens.
The farm was established in 2022 by Hammond. While his previous farm offered microgreens, they were more of an afterthought. He eventually came back to them after searching for a year-round product to grow that wouldn’t be too demanding as he aged.
Originally cultivated in a retrofitted shed, the operation was moved into a climate-controlled room in a barn Hammond finished building earlier this year.
These farmers use various techniques to grow their microgreens, like overhead and underwatering, requiring them to constantly transport the trays indoors and outdoors for optimum quality.
“It’s a lot of observing and adjusting as we notice patterns,” says Strohmayer who joined the business this year. “Over the last year, we’ve really dialed in our seeding rate and watering schedule which has helped to stabilize production.”
Each Saturday morning, their microgreens can be found at the RVA Big Market. They offer about 10 varieties at a time with their mild and spicy mixes being some of the most reliable sellers, although they notice fluctuations.
“Customer preferences are fascinating to observe and tend to follow media trends and/or the seasons,” says Strohmayer.
In 2023, the two noticed that broccoli was a big seller. Peas are often sought after in the spring and basil and cilantro in the summer.
“We love providing healthy, seasonal food to our community,” says Hammond. “This is our livelihood, so we hope to continue refining our business so that we can keep farming as we age.”
The concept of microgreens has been around for centuries. Believed to have originated in ancient Asia, they only became known as “microgreens” over the past few decades. In the 1980s, microgreens started showing up more in restaurants as chefs began showcasing them in their dishes – a delicious trend that continues today.
But microgreens have left their mark in many other areas, including the farming industry. Gone is the need for large fields and waiting for specific planting times. They can be grown anywhere at any time making them a favorite with urban farmers.
Apart from this, the seedlings contain extraordinary nutrient levels, something researchers believe could be key to preventing numerous health concerns, including cancer.
It’s a benefit Upshaw is particularly captivated by. “They have huge antioxidant impacts,” he says. This is especially so with broccoli microgreens which can have around 100 times more sulforaphane (a phytochemical that calms inflammation) compared to a fully grown crown. In fact, Upshaw claims he’d eat this microgreen (one of his bestsellers) for the rest of his life thanks to its incredible health perks.
“I still like full-size broccoli and all that jazz,” he says. “There’s a certain comfort in familiarity; but as a more pragmatic person, I want nutrition.”
