“We shut this place down at 3 a.m. one night, had a big time,” my dad says as we’re walking into 1870 Restaurant and Bar, the new Midlothian steakhouse (ish) from David and Brittany Dunlap. He’s not talking about this iteration of Jewett-Bass Hall, though. The stately building has been many things before the Dunlaps took over in 2023.
Erected by George H. and John W. Jewett in 1870, hence the name, the space has had lives as a general store, a residence, a restaurant, another store, and a real estate office, with stops in between (those portions of its history are murky).
Let’s just put it this way: If the walls could yap, the stories would be insane.
In its current life as a French-inspired chophouse, it is massive, seating 130 diners across two floors and 4,000 square feet. The upstairs is divided into several rooms and a large bar area and the downstairs houses an expansive dining room with a smaller yet serviceable bar nestled near the entrance.
No matter when you visit, the large space is positively astir. Happy hour is a combo of bustling and crazy for two reasons: First, there are few local choices for happy hour in this area—yes, we see you right next door, Caddy’s, and we love you. Second, the 1870 happy hour menu (available Monday-Friday, 4-6 p.m. in the bar room, main floor bar and speakeasy) features deeply discounted appetizers, classic cocktails, beer and wine.
The zenith on this extensive list of happy hour food is Dunlap’s spicy shrimp toast ($8) devoid of the oily texture so often present in toast of similar ilk. Put forward as a cute little square (surprise!) the toast is deep fried, dressed with a squiggle of bright, light yellow sesame dressing and a smattering of green herbs. The toast itself is not tremendously sizable yet still super shareable as it’s on the richer end of the app spectrum.
Another high point is the salmon tartare (also $8). Less tartare and more perky, chunky salmon salad, it is served in a squat mason jar with plucky apple slices and creamy mustard.
If there were a nitpick to be had here at the happiest of hours, it would be the lackluster grilled bread served alongside the salmon and sadly, a few of the drinks ($5 wine, $6 classic cocktails, $4/$3 beer). The classics are just under par: a dry martini served with vermouth on the way out, a cosmo, a tad too sweet, and a pinot noir that is just a bit too warm.
Even when happy hour ends, there’s no stopping the thronging sets of diners for dinner service, though prices are more likely to sting the nostrils during this time of night.
Chef Dunlap’s kitchen history is primarily in the world of fine dining with stints at places like Alain Ducasse, The Inn at Little Washington and the now shuttered Maple & Pine in Quirk Hotel. The Dunlaps also currently own and operate another higher-end suburban restaurant, Midlothian Chef’s Kitchen, which opened in 2021.
Dunlap carries over his fine dining pedigree to the 1870 entrees. We tried the 15-ounce prime New York strip ($62) and an eight-ounce hanger steak ($30) which sit sous-vide or vacuum sealed, popped in a metal bathtub of sorts set to a specific temperature. For what it’s worth, according to our server, all the proteins available get the sous-vide treatment with the exception of the duck, then are grilled in order to hit the table ostensibly at a perfect temperature.
Four out of five times, this method is almost foolproof delivering an excellent, yet exceedingly stark steak with little seasoning other than salt and pepper; a medium rare steak once proved to be a tough ask.
The salve for the high price tag is that each dinner option—protein or cauliflower steak—is served with a choice of sauce including the very peppery au poivre, a classic béarnaise, a by-the-book hollandaise, roasted garlic, and literal horseradish and cream or compounded butter (garlic, shallot or caramelized onion). Additional sauces and butters are $5 each.
The entrees also each come with an accompaniment, 1870’s word for side dish. The creamy spinach—not to be confused with creamed spinach—is beautifully done with toothy leaves. Similarly, the potato au gratin is quite good with its thyme-forward, creamy layers. For those who are searching for a simpler side, opt for the fat and tender spears of asparagus. Additional accompaniments can be added for $8-$12.
If red meat isn’t on your dance card, perhaps stick to apps and sides. The 16-ounce Berkshire bone-in pork chop ($30), only cooked medium or more, is austere in taste and color. The market-price lobster is poached with vanilla, adding sweet to more sweet, and the seared duck ($52) is as reserved as the pork.
Several thoughtful table touches occur expertly throughout each dining occasion along with deep explanations of appetizers, desserts and dinner. Without such service, on one occasion, the table would have foregone an appetizer of lobster bisque ($20) and would have been remiss as the flaky, pastry-covered bowl of lobster is superb, a wizardly work-up of cream, butter and broth.
1870 feels like a special occasion spot, looks like a special occasion spot, but walks like an anytime spot. Drinks, dinner, just apps? It all can be done here.
And for all of those, it’s pretty spot on for a big time.
1870 Restaurant and Bar is located at 13310 Midlothian Turnpike in Midlothian, Virginia. Check the website for hours.
