Bury The Lede

Few things taste sweeter than a harmless yet well-kept food secret, and we have a few to share.

In a city full of well-trodden restaurants and beloved menu items, Richmond’s food scene still has much to delight those who have cycled through all the must-tries and go-tos (like Helen’s banana pancakes or pho at Pho Tay Do).

There is a special satisfaction in exploring Richmond’s more under-the-radar bites. From full menus to the more clandestine items on popular menus, here are the culinary stars that live long beyond the plate, both on our palates and in our hearts.

West African fine dining at Elegant Cuizines 

Originally from Liberia, Elegant Cuizines chef and owner Theresa Headen says she opened her restaurant at 415 W. Grace St. with the intention of giving customers the opportunity to experience her culture through her plates.

“The thing I love about Liberian food is that it has a lot of strength to it,” Headen says. “There’s a lot of resilience, power and love in the flavor and in the country. A lot of times people tell me that they feel so happy eating here, and that’s the idea—that they feel the love of this country.”

The majority of Elegant Cuizines’ dishes put an inventive twist on Liberian and West African ingredients.

There’s the palava salmon, which features a spice rub and sauce derived from a dehydrated version of palava, a veg-heavy stew eaten widely throughout Liberia; lamb chops adorned with suya, a peanut-based spice mix originally from Nigeria, flavored with ginger, cayenne, paprika and other herbs and spices; and the potato greens and artichoke dip, a twist on spinach artichoke dip served with fufu chips. Fufu is a dough made with cassava flour, traditionally served as a soft ball that is torn up and used to dip and scoop up stews.

At times, Headen offers Liberian specialties in their more traditional iteration. Last year, she hosted a dinner series where she served a variety of Liberian dishes in their authentic form, and she plans to bring the event back in the future due to popular demand.

While Headen says that she turns down the typical heat of Liberian food to suit the widest range of palates, she also has pepper sauce that she makes in-house—switching up peppers from batch to batch, from habaneros to ghost peppers—which visitors who can handle a spicier experience can ask for.

James Seger proudly serves Korean dishes at his Lakeside bar.

Korean at Lakeside Tavern

Lakeside Tavern’s inconspicuous exterior gives way to an understated, divey inside, with a checkered floor that frequently hosts popular karaoke nights, and live performances from bands that traverse genres, from indie rock to post-hardcore.

In between pints of draft Bud Light and shots of whiskey, one might be surprised to find that this Henrico bar also boasts some of the best Korean food in town, thanks to owner James Seger and his mother, Kye Seger.

James worked at Lakeside as a bartender before he and his mother bought out the former owners of the bar. James now heads up front-of-house operations and Kye—who has previous experience owning and operating restaurants and bars—runs the kitchen. Over time, she started to introduce Korean dishes to the bar menu.

“She loves to cook, and she wanted to incorporate some of her style into Lakeside,” says James. “We serve whatever my mother feels like; try to put a little culture into it.”

Several beloved menu items include the bulgogi (Korean barbecued beef, which James recommends to anyone who has never had Korean food before), and bibimbap, a rice bowl with vegetables, rice, meat and the option of a fried egg and gochujang (red chili paste).

Another item that regulars and Redditors rave about is “Kye’s specialty wings,” chicken wings made in the style of kkanpunggi, Korean spicy, garlic fried chicken—an elevated accompaniment to your Pabst Blue Ribbon.

Joe’s Inn Nickwich.

The Nickwich at Joe’s Inn

Welcoming visitors with its signature branded awning, Joe’s Inn has been a Richmond institution for decades.

The laid-back, come-as-you-are eatery first opened in 1952. The cheery staff, warm, wooden booths, high-piled servings and budget-friendly prices have long appealed to the masses. And while the restaurant is well known for comfort food staples like its towering spaghetti and meatballs and chicken Parmesan (each swaddled in a blanket of mozzarella), one underrated item on the menu is the humble Nickwich. Available anytime, this breakfast sandwich features two fried eggs, provolone cheese, bacon and tomatoes on a choice of white, wheat or rye toast. Alongside its satisfyingly simple flavors, the sandwich comes with a backstory that traverses the history of the restaurant.

Nickwich takes its name from Nick Kafantaris, who bought Joe’s Inn from its founder, Joe Mencarini, in the 1970s (Kafantaris passed away in 2020; his daughter Tina is one of the restaurant’s owners today). In the late 2010s, Kafantaris lived in the apartment located above the restaurant, and would frequently start his day by coming down for a meal.

“He would more or less make himself a sandwich in the kitchen,” says Lars Reisinger, general manager at Joe’s Inn. “You’d look over and Nick would be walking over with a plate. This sandwich is an homage to him.”

Notably, there are no substitutions with the Nickwich. As the menu reads, “Just like Nick … it is what it is.”

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