Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Eat About Town

Some upcoming food-and-drink events you don’t want to miss.

Posted By on Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 1:00 AM

Mark your calendars, folks. Your favorite chefs, and maybe some you've never heard of, are pulling out all the stops over these next few weeks. There's something for everyone, so be sure to buy your tickets and make reservations before it's too late.

Guest Cooking Series Featuring Mike Ledesma

In collaboration with Mise En Place Cooking School, Mike Ledesma of Perch will teach you how to make one of his signature recipes on Thursday, Feb. 28. The event also will include appetizers, wine and a chat with Ledesma about Richmond's food scene.

Tickets cost $50 per person and available at misenplacerva.com/classes.

Alewife-Longoven Collaboration Dinner

Did you miss the Jan. 28 event at Alewife when chef Lee Gregory welcomed the Longoven team into his kitchen for a collaboration dinner? Good news: You've got another opportunity, just the other way around this time. On Sunday, Feb. 24, Alewife staff will join Patrick Phelan, Megan Fitzroy Phelan and Andrew Manning on their turf to create another multicourse meal for $75 per person with an optional wine pairing for $35.
Call Longoven at 308-3497 or visit longovenrva.com to make reservations.

Virginia Wine Expo

Tickets still are available for the annual Virginia Wine Expo, Feb. 26-March 3. The six-day affair showcasing all things delicious in the Commonwealth is composed of ticketed events like Nightbeat on Saturday, March 2, with gourmet late-night hors d'oeuvres and snacks, plus wine, port, cider and whiskey at the Old City Bar. On Friday, March 1, sample some of Virginia's best barbecue (there will be plenty of meat and seafood but it'll also be vegetarian-friendly) paired with regional beer, wine and whiskey.

The grand poohbah of the Wine Expo is the Walk-Around Grand Tasting on March 2 and 3, featuring a little bit of everything from Virginia, plus wines from places like Southern California and Chile. Tickets cost from $55 to $765.

Black Restaurant Experience

During the first week of March, the Black Restaurant Experience is an eight-day event highlighting minority-owned food-and-drink businesses in the Richmond area.

Kicking off the festivities is Mobile Soul Sunday on March 3, featuring more than a dozen food trucks, music and a kids' zone between 11th and 14th streets. Featured restaurants, catering companies and food trucks include Vagabond, Send a Chef, Minibar RVA, Mama J's, Boogaloos Bar and Grill, Brewer's Cafe, Soul Taco, Inner City Blues, Spoonbread Bistro, Sugar's Crab Shack and Urban Hang Suite.

The culminating event on Sunday, March 10, is Stick a Fork in It, a celebration including cooking demonstrations, tasting contests, paint-and-sip and small plates at $3-5 each. Held at the Arthur Ashe Center, it starts at noon.

The Black Restaurant Experience has named the Mary G. Brown Transition Center, a re-entry organization that provides services to people with felony convictions, as this year's beneficiary.

Tarrant's West Speakeasy

Sshhhh ... it's a secret. On Friday, March 15, show up at Tarrant's West, the one in Henrico, in your best flapper outfit and be prepared to party like it's 1929. Entertainment will include live music, and a $30 ticket gets you a drink ticket and hors d'oeuvres. Respond to brittany@tarrantswestrva.com.

Wednesday, February 13, 2019

Bagels 'n' Beer

Nate's Bagels will soon serve up a collaboration with the Veil.

Posted By on Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 9:19 PM

Last week, a photo of a keg from the Veil Brewing Co. appeared on Nate's Bagels' Instagram account.

"Posted without comment," reads the caption, with a "sshh" emoji.

This week, in a move that’s so Richmond it almost hurts, Nate’s Bagels announced that it will soon serve a seasonal bagel in collaboration with the Veil. That’s right, folks — Nate’s is making a beer bagel.

According to a press release, the Veil Stout Bagel incorporates the brewery’s vanilla cocoa nib hornswoggler, a chocolate milk stout with Tahitian vanilla and Videri chocolate cocoa nibs. For the next month, the bagels will be available every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Grab one as-is for $3, or have it sliced and add an Oreo chocolate stout cream cheese for $4. Supplies are limited to two per customer in the shop, or you can pre-order up to 12 at a time with at least 48 hours’ notice.

It’s a poetic full circle, the team at Nate’s dragging kegs from the Veil into its kitchen for a special project — when the bagel shop was still a pop-up back in 2017, the Veil invited owner Nate Mathews to set up a tent at its Sunday farmers market.

Friday, February 8, 2019

Back to Nature

Using locally-foraged yeast, Tabol Brewing brings fresh, funky flavors to the beer scene.

Posted By on Fri, Feb 8, 2019 at 5:24 PM

North Side claims its first craft brewery with the opening of Tabol Brewing Co. The city’s newest beer-maker might sound more like an Ikea furniture model, but it is far wilder and funkier than the orderly modern lines of contraptions from the Swedish retail giant. And no Allen wrenches are required to enjoy the saisons and wild ales on offer.

The brewery’s name is an intentional misspelling of the Esperanto word for table. There’s a long story and short story with a side commentary about how just about everything in English is trademarked these days.

Richmond wants for no brewery, but Tabol’s entry into a town nearly flooded with craft beer manages to offer something rare and refreshing. They are singularly focused on fermenting wild ales and saisons, whether from lab-cultured yeasts or with cultures collected from back alleyway mulberry trees. Nic Caudle and Travis Dise, the co-founders, say this style of brewing is the most fun and least predictable. They also age everything in wood.

“It’s our favorite style of beer,” says co-founder Travis Dise. “I call it Old-World style beer. Everything’s brewed in wood barrels, and we forage for wild yeast. A lot of breweries play with this stuff on the side, but for us, it’s the main focus.”

Beer lovers should easily find something to wet their whistle, whether a fruitier, tangy brew or a more spicy, floral saison. All of Tabol’s opening brews fall in the 4 to 6 percent alcohol range.

The opening taps include a balanced mix of both sour and earthy beer. If you’re not into the funkier brews, you may want to try Please Advise (6 percent alcohol), a dark ale with a clean, smooth blend of two barrels using different yeast cultures. The Sezono (6 percent alcohol) is crisp and clean and delivers subtle aromatic notes of pepper and meadow.

For the more adventurous imbibers, try the Jiinks, (4.3 percent alcohol), a tart ale made with Tabol’s house wild yeast. It was naturally conditioned in a wine barrel and has a smooth, fascinating taste that for a second makes the beer taste like a distant cousin of wine.

The Stock Blend is also a great example of how this brewery is experimenting with blends to great effect. This inaugural stock blend is on the tart side, but keep your eye on what it serves next and always ask your friendly bartender for the latest tasting notes.

Lovers of the outdoor spaces, take note of the substantial deck. It will be perfect in Richmond’s warmer weather, which nowadays usually comes right after the single-digit lows. The deck area is dog-friendly, and at least one good pup was spotted opening weekend, soaking in the sun and the admiration of day drinkers on an unseasonably warm February day.

Tabol Brewing 704 Dawn St. 303-5528 Thursdays - Fridays 4 - 9 p.m. Saturdays Noon - 9 p.m. Sundays Noon - 6 p.m. tabolbrewing.com

Monday, February 4, 2019

Dinner on the Go

The Big Kitchen brings fresh, ready-to-eat meals to Scott’s Addition.

Posted By on Mon, Feb 4, 2019 at 2:53 PM

Weeknight dinners just got a lot easier. For the days you just don't have it in you to cook but you're not feeling takeout, the Big Kitchen offers something in between.

Owned by the team behind Tazza Kitchen, this new concept is all about convenient food that requires minimal preparation. The process is simple: Visit the Big Kitchen website, order from an extensive menu of entrees, sides, salads, soups, pizzas and party platters, set your pick-up time and retrieve your food accordingly. There's even a drive-thru option, and delivery will be available soon.

"We were really intrigued by this idea of prepared meals," says co-owner Susan Davenport. "We all like to cook but we just don't have the same time during the week. We wanted to focus on meals that were really good recipes, made from scratch with good ingredients, and this idea of things that translated really well to transporting home."

Some of the best restaurant meals out there simply don't travel well, and no matter how appealing it is when it's piping hot, it could be a textureless mess by the time it makes it to your dining room table. The chefs at the Big Kitchen make everything fresh daily, and it all hangs out in the fridge or freezer until pickup. Some items, like the wood-fired pizzas or dishes with shrimp, are only partially cooked ahead of time so that the extra minutes in the home oven don't send them into overdone territory. Other things like the meatballs (yes, the same ones served at Tazza), red skin mashed potatoes, soups and barbecue are fully cooked and able to be reheated. Everything comes in oven- and microwave-safe compostable containers with heating instructions attached.

And if you're really in a bind and didn't even have time to submit an order online, there's a limited selection of grab-and-go items available inside. Next to a small cooler of beer, wine and sodas are several shelves packed with containers of pimento cheese, fresh salads, pasta entrees and condiments. Davenport says both the online menu and market selection will rotate pretty regularly, and they're already adding new items after only a couple weeks of operation.

The warehouselike building also includes a test kitchen for the chefs to experiment with new recipes, office spaces and a smokehouse that serves all their restaurants.

The Big Kitchen
1600 Altamont Ave.
Mondays - Saturdays 11:30 a.m. - 7 p.m.
Sundays 11:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Wednesday, January 30, 2019

Ice Cream for Breakfast

This Saturday, Gelati Celesti will open in time for the most important meal of the day.

Posted By on Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 5:05 PM

Because we live in a truly remarkable time, there’s an entire holiday celebrating dessert as the most important meal of the day. And not just any dessert.

This Saturday, Feb. 2, let's all celebrate Ice Cream for Breakfast Day, a beautifully self-explanatory occasion. Gelati Celesti is acknowledging this most auspicious day by opening its five locations at 9 a.m. And as if the promise of a Gelati cone before lunch isn’t enough, there will also be Blanchard’s coffee, your favorite cereals on hand to go on top of the ice cream, and Sugar Shack doughnuts. Oh, and if you show up in your pajamas, that doughnut is free.

And in related Gelati news, the frozen treats empire recently announced that the beloved Rainbow Cookie ice cream, featuring, yes, those rainbow cookies from Ukrop's, is now permanently available at every location.

Tuesday, January 22, 2019

Kickin' Chicken

Hot Chick, by Eat Restaurant Partners, makes its debut next week.

Posted By on Tue, Jan 22, 2019 at 1:00 AM

This chicken is no fast food — whether that means it's fit for a president may be up for debate, but we'll certainly take it.

Hot Chick, the newest endeavor from the team behind Wong Gonzalez, Foo Dog, Pizza and Beer of Richmond, and Fat Dragon, is all about the chicken — fried chicken, grilled chicken, Buffalo chicken, chicken tenders, chicken wings and chicken gravy. But front and center is the restaurant's namesake: the Hot Chick, a sandwich inspired by Nashville hot chicken.

Classic Nashville hot chicken is precisely what it sounds like, the bird's got some spice. This particular sandwich features a chicken breast with a spicy dry rub, fried to a golden crisp and topped on a bun with dill pickles and light, fresh ranch slaw.

Hospitality manager Chris Staples says the sandwich is "spicy AF" (that's "spicy as fuck," to be clear) and claims it will soon be known as the best chicken sandwich in town. But if chicken that will send smoke pouring out of your ears doesn't strike your fancy, there's plenty more on the menu, like the Cali Chick sandwich: grilled chicken, Muenster cheese, napa cabbage, tomato, guacamole, bacon and ranch. Starters include fried chicken skins, bacon-fat waffle fries with fried sage and Parmesan, cheddar biscuits, and fried pimento cheese.

For lighter fare you'll find three salads, and sides include potato salad, creamed corn, mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts. A section of the menu dubbed Creative Comforts includes Buffalo chicken macaroni and cheese, chicken and waffles and Chez Love's Special, affectionately titled after chef Mike Lindsey's nickname: a waffle, four-cheese macaroni and a fried chicken tender dipped in Memphis Sweet Heat, a vinegar-based hot sauce.

Lindsey hails from North Carolina, hence the Southern-focused menu.

"The menu starts in Nashville and finishes in North Carolina," Staples says. "It goes everywhere in between, so it's got a little bit of Texas, Alabama, Kentucky, Tennessee, Virginia, North Carolina. It's all those fried chicken concepts kind of rolled into one."

An extensive drink menu features house cocktails, craft beer and wine. A weekday happy hour will offer $4 rail drinks, $6 wines by the glass and $1 off bottles, cans and specialty cocktails. Desserts include banana pudding, a loaded waffle and Nightingale Ice Cream Sandwiches with honey-maple ice cream and waffle chunks. They're not on the menu yet, but Staples says to expect other sweets along the lines of Cheerwine floats.

The name of the restaurant, Staples says, is all in good fun. It's a play on the menu's focal point, and it's also a reference to the alleged history of Nashville hot chicken.

Legend has it that the great-uncle of the original hot chicken restaurant purveyor in Nashville chose to spend a Saturday night with another lady. The next day, to remind him who's in charge, his wife smothered the Sunday chicken with eye-popping chili powder before frying it up. Turns out the punishment was more of a pleasure for him, thus launching a decades-long Southern obsession with the fiery bird.

"So it's the hot chicken, and also an angry woman," Staples says. "There were all these things about the story that we really enjoyed drawing upon."

After a series of trial runs with friends, family and industry folks, Hot Chick opens on Wednesday, Jan. 23.

Hot Chick
7 N. 17th St.
Mondays - Thursdays 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Fridays - Saturdays 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Sundays 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Brunch at Bar Solita

Chicken and crepes, breakfast chimichangas and mimosa flights are on the new weekend menu.

Posted By on Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 1:00 AM

Breakfast pizza was already on the regular menu, but a few months after its debut, Bar Solita is leaning into the brunch trend. As of last weekend, the Mediterranean-focused menu now includes an expansive, creative weekend selection dubbed the Flamingo Brunch.

You've got your staples like biscuits and gravy and an eggs platter, of course, but you'll also find twists on classic brunch items. Rather than chicken and waffles, two hefty pieces of crispy breaded chicken come alongside a serving of red velvet crepes, with dollops of whipped cream on the plate. Bar Solita's take on a breakfast burrito is the breakfast chimichanga, a soft tortilla rolled around fluffy scrambled eggs and sausage gravy, deep-fried and smothered in green goddess dressing and fennel pico. Other items include a Mexican chocolate parfait, breakfast empanadas, shrimp and curry polenta, harissa smoked chicken wings and a giant, shareable cinnamon bun.

New chef Lucky Abimbola transferred from Little Saint to Bar Solita about two months ago, just in time to dig into the brunch menu. The chicken and crepes is her favorite.

"Usually when you see chicken on a brunch menu, you think waffles," Abimbola says. "This is just kind of an adult way to eat chicken for breakfast."

On the bar side, why have just one flavor of mimosa when you can have five? Served alongside a pour-yourself bottle of champagne, the mimosa flight features small glasses of sweet, fruity concoctions including strawberry-mint and pineapple-honey, plus the standard orange juice. There's enough of each flavor to mix with the entire bottle of champagne, so you might want to split this with your brunch buddy or spring for an Uber.

If sweet and bubbly isn't your thing, keep an eye out for the bloody mary cart. Pushed around the dining room by a bartender, it features at least three types of vodka, several tomato-based mixes, including locally made Texas Beach bloody mary mix, and add-ins like horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, lemons and olives. No idea what you want? Just order a dealer's choice, and let the roving barkeep know your preferred spice level. There's also a boozy, for-the-table cocktail served in a giant ceramic flamingo, which a diner describes as a "brunch version of a Long Island iced tea."

Brunch is available from 10 a.m. to about 3:30 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.

Bar Solita
123 W. Broad St.
Mondays - Fridays 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Saturdays 10 a.m. - 1 a.m.
Sundays 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.

Friday, January 4, 2019

Market in Manchester

Butterbean makes its debut on Hull Street this weekend.

Posted By on Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 4:41 PM

After a quiet soft opening week, the Butterbean Market and Cafe will hold its grand opening on Saturday, Jan. 5. Located at 1204 Hull St., it’s the newest development by Michael and Laura Hild, the couple behind Church Hill Ventures aiming to revitalize Manchester. The Hilds’ first culinary venture in the neighborhood, Hot Diggity Donuts, opened directly across the street about seven months ago.

“By developing multiple different, somewhat unique concepts all on the same block, we’re hoping to create that density and that critical mass that will draw people to the area just to check out what’s going on,” says culinary director Dan Scherotter. “That density is what creates a vibrant community and the urban feel people are looking for when they move to a cool place like Richmond.”

The Butterbean is split into two distinct spaces, with a doorway connecting the two. On the market side, shelves are lined with everyday things like condiments, paper products and breakfast cereal, plus specialty items like local bread, pickles and pasta. Coolers are stocked with familiar local brands like Potter’s Craft Cider, Nightingale Ice Cream, Ninja Kombucha and King of Pops.

In the cafe, colorful stools surround wooden tables and bright green tiling lines the coffee counter. Coffee from Blanchard’s and Carytown Tea are available at the counter, along with fresh-squeezed orange juice and craft beer. Running the kitchen is John Kinser, formerly of the Church Hill staple Union Market, which Scherotter says has served as an inspiration for the Butterbean. The menu features soups, salads, sandwiches and grilled Italian flatbreads known as piadinas, and everything is $10 or less.

“I think you can do a lot with sandwiches,” says Scherotter, whose culinary background includes, sandwich shops, fine dining restaurants and everything between. “By putting together a sandwich properly and using high-quality ingredients, you can really elevate the form.”

One of those elevated sandwiches is the spicy tuna belly salad on a sesame bun, the Butterbean’s take on a tuna melt. The mayonnaise mixed in with the oil-packed fish is seasoned with charmoula, a blend of spices traditionally used in Moroccan cuisine, to give it some heat without packing too much of a punch. With a slice of buffalo mozzarella and a handful of fresh greens, the sandwich comes in at $9.

Picnic tables with umbrellas line the outdoor patio space, which Scherotter says will hopefully host live music when the weather allows.

Scherotter says you can expect most of the menu to be available this weekend, along with stocked shelves in the market. And if they don’t have something you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to let someone know.

“We’re just trying to get really cool things people want,” he says. “Tell us what you like and what more to order.”

The Butterbean Market and Cafe

1204 Hull St.



Every day 8 a.m. - 11 p.m.

Wednesday, January 2, 2019

Betting on Brunch

Lunch and Supper's new Fan spot serves up your favorite meal, all day every day.

Posted By on Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 2:03 PM

Is brunch a time of day or a state of mind? Turns out it’s both, as the owners of Lunch and Supper discovered. They found that their customers wanted eggy dishes not just on Sunday mornings, so they created a new addition to their restaurant family. Brunch opened to the public Wednesday.

“People kept coming into Lunch and Supper for dinner, and asking if we were still serving eggs,” says owner Rick Lyons. “We decided to give the people what they want.”

Brunch took over the old Starlite Dining and Lounge at Robinson and Main streets in the Fan. Gone are the dark, boozy booths and multiple TV screens that lined the narrow space. Instead, Brunch installed several new windows that create a lightened atmosphere along with fresh fixtures, colorful floral wall murals and lots of warm wood and brick.

Patrons of Lunch and Supper won’t be surprised by the massive eight-page menu. You’ll find brunch classics like various eggs Benedict, omelets, waffles, french toast, pancakes and biscuits. But the menu also offers lighter options like salads, sandwiches and several grain bowls, plus kids’ meals.

There is an additional four-page bar menu, with classics like mimosas and bloody Marys, and fun options such as hot toddies and a punch bowl for the table. Nonalcoholic options include sodas, chai, cold-brew coffee and local kombucha.

“Lunch and Supper are more Southern with the food,” Lyons says. “Brunch is sort of French provincial slammed into Garden and Gun.”

For example, Brunch tweaks poutine, the classic Canadian french fries smothered in cheese curds and brown gravy, by substituting crispy sweet potato fries, redeye gravy and pulled pork. The chicken and waffles dish features a delicate but flavorful bacon-infused waffle. Vegans will find several choices, including a maitake mushroom bowl and spicy-sweet barbecued jackfruit, an increasingly popular alternative to tofu and tempeh.

Foodies will notice more unusual items punctuating dishes like duck eggs, raclette, enoki mushrooms and charred green onion aioli.

Although the bar is well-stocked, Brunch won’t open for dinner until March. Even then, service will end by about 10 p.m., as Brunch doesn’t intend to be part of the popular late-night bar scene in that section of the Fan.

Brunch goes all in on local vendors, with the menu listing 22 Virginia food and beverage partners including Autumn Olive Farms, Reservoir Distillery, Ardent Craft Ales, Blue Ridge Bucha and Carytown Coffee. Grains come from Anson Mills in Charleston, South Carolina, an heirloom grains supplier favored by Husk founding chef Sean Brock.

You can brunch hard on a budget here, with most main courses priced at $10-$12. This is hearty comfort food served in large portions, so be prepared to take some home. Alcoholic drinks cost from $7-$12.

During the soft open, chatty guests filled the space with a loud, buzzy vibe, but we had no trouble hearing our conversations. Light flooded the room, and service was warm and friendly. We devoured dish after dish, each providing the satisfying heft and strong flavors typical of brunch food. For us, the post-brunch nap was not optional.


2600 W. Main St.

Every day 7 a.m. - 4 p.m.


Friday, December 28, 2018

Down Home

Locker Room owners are slinging barbecue, biscuits and beer at the Pitts.

Posted By on Fri, Dec 28, 2018 at 2:10 PM

It seems everyone has a different take on it: the lowly, hallowed dive bar. The place where you can order a beer and a shot for just a few bucks and see at least one familiar face. Definitions and perceptions of these neighborhood joints are about as varied as the often perplexing string of tunes you might hear on the jukebox — there's gotta be a jukebox — but for one local restaurateur, the definition is simple.

"To me a dive bar is just kinda frozen in time," says Lisa Ann Peters, who co-owns the beloved Richmond institution the Locker Room and recently opened the Pitts with her husband. "Even the décor is from another time. There's nothing really modern in them, they're cheap, drinks are heavily poured, there's no pretension."

And that's exactly what Peters and her husband Michael are going for at the Pitts, the new sister dive to the Locker Room, in the old Boondocks building at 2220 Broad Rock Blvd. Officially up and running since Dec. 1 after a couple weeks of soft opening, the Pitts already feels like a go-to neighborhood joint, with regulars sidling up to the bar nearly every morning for their 7:30 a.m. cups of coffee and plates of biscuits and gravy. The interior is reminiscent of the Locker Room: old-timey framed photos, a mounted fish, donning a Santa hat this time of year, vintage beer signs, a pool table and video games. The crown jewel is its outdoor space in the back, complete with fire pits, warmers and charmingly, deliberately mismatched patio furniture.

Where the Pitts differs from the Locker Room, and perhaps from other dives, is the food. Peters hired Billy Lawson, who used to work at McCormack›s Big Whisky Grill, to run the kitchen. They're still tinkering with the menu, which Peters says they intend to keep small and straightforward. Classic eggs-your-way plates, country fried steak and biscuits are available all day, and barbecue is constantly coming out of the smoker. Sandwiches include two burgers, fried bologna, barbecue and spicy breaded chicken, with sides like collard greens, corn bread, coleslaw and fries. 

Like anyone else who's been in the River City longer than 10 years, Peters remembers what the food landscape looked like before Richmond was on the map.

"Back in my 20s when I was waitressing, the number of restaurants that were really nice to work in was pretty limited," Peters says. "It's kind of amazing now what we have."

Peters says she doesn't consider herself or her businesses to be "in the same league" as the trendy new restaurants popping up in every neighborhood, and she loves trying out new spots when she can get away. But even as $14 cocktails and gourmet grass-fed burgers become the norm, she's confident that establishments like the Locker Room and the Pitts will always have a place in the dining scene — partially because at the end of the night, folks working at those new restaurants need a place to eat and drink, too.

"You can see the value in being very professional, putting out this wonderful product, then letting your hair down, playing some pool," Peters says. "I think there's still a spot for a place to grab a burger or a quick breakfast without feeling like you have to get dressed up."

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