Monday, September 9, 2019

Back to Business

Riverbend Coffee Co. takes over Captain Buzzy’s Beanery in Church Hill.

Posted By on Mon, Sep 9, 2019 at 2:00 PM

Tasha Bobrosky's 2003 Honda CRV, Tallulah, is a lady of the night.

"She's red, she glows, she's hot," says the co-owner of Riverbend Coffee Co., which took over the infamous Captain Buzzy's Beanery space in Church Hill in July.

Her car complements her husband-turned-business-partner Brian Colegrove's 1995 rusty Dodge Ram frequently parked outside the shop. It makes an ever-so slight-noise when the brakes are pumped, he says, but it does the job.
Today, the truck transports Oreos needed for a Riverbend milkshake — one part of the shop's overhaul of Buzzy's menu.

The couple is quick to say its favorite food item is the Country Peach panini, a savory and sweet combination of country ham, scallion cream cheese, jalapenos and peach preserves. Concocted by a friend who's also a chef, the menu includes a balsamic pork panini with roasted tenderloin, basil and fontina cheese and an ultimate grilled cheese with Gruyere, cheddar and bacon. Nightingale ice cream sandwiches are also available along with smoothies, bagels and scones.

"We're not selling Sam's Club baked goods," Colegrove says with a chuckle. "Everything is baked in-house."

While it's keeping true to Buzzy's classic Sumatra dark roast, Riverbend diversifies its coffee portfolio with Costa Rican beans, a Brazilian medium roast and blueberry coffee. With Bobrosky and Colegrove being new to coffee roasting and business ownership, it's been a chaotic process.

"We're learning as we go, but [our staffers] are awesome people," Colegrove says. "We look to them as to what's next."

Bobrosky's last day as a full-time dietitian before being round-the-clock at Riverbend is coming up. As she mentions it, she remembers when her dream was to be a farmer. Colegrove interjects to say he doesn't know why since she's able to kill a succulent.

Although he's not giving up his day job in telecommunication sales just yet, Colegrove says he's excited to see where Riverbend takes him in a year. Bobrosky looks forward to curbing her recurring nightmares of forgetting how to make a latte or BLT.

"It's so odd because both of us at our jobs are the go-to," Bobrosky says of adjusting to not knowing everything yet. "But we have a lot of backup."

As for revamping the space — which included upgrading the espresso machines and coffee brewers — it was an extensive process. When they say they cleaned the premises with a toothbrush, they're not kidding.

But Bobrosky, a dedicated Buzzy's customer for nearly 10 years and TV fanatic who allegedly wins at "Friends" trivia every time, says it's worth it. The 16-year dietitian always wanted to open a coffee shop that resembled the setting of the '80s show Cheers, where everyone knows everyone and meets up at the neighborhood spot. She even modeled the women's bathroom after Rachel and Monica's apartment in "Friends."

So she welcomes her life feeling like a sitcom.

Included in the character list are staffers who worked at Buzzy's for years — and who Bobrosky and Colegrove say are the backbone of the shop," and the regular customers who've been with Buzzy from the start, such as Eddie Jenkins, a local cop, and Mr. Rucker, who has his designated couch near the window.

The next step for Riverbend? Wholesaling its coffee, potentially establishing a coffee cart and creating a space near Buzzy's classic coffee roaster, a limited edition 1980 Probat GN12, for locals to keep their personal mugs.

"Nobody else is putting their lips on my mug!" Colegrove jokes.

Riverbend Coffee Co.
2523 E. Broad St.
Mondays - Fridays 6:30 a.m. - 7 p.m.
Saturdays 7 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Sundays 8 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Armenian Pride

The history behind one of Richmond’s longest running food festivals.

Posted By on Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 1:00 AM

At lunchtime on a Tuesday in late August, the first floor of St. James Armenian Church is bustling. The 61st annual Armenian Food Festival is less than two weeks away, so it's preparation crunch time for the dedicated team behind the event.

In the kitchen, neat rolls of bourma, a traditional Armenian dessert resembling baklava, line jumbo baking sheets in various stages of production. One apron-and-hairnet-clad volunteer slices the rolled sweets and paints them with butter before popping the pan into the oven, while another drizzles a generous serving of simple syrup over a hot, fresh batch.

In the adjacent room, a multigenerational group of mostly women focus on the early bourma-making steps: gently folding a sheet of phyllo dough in two, painting each side with clarified butter, spreading on a mixture of walnuts, cinnamon and sugar and then, using a small wooden dowel, delicately rolling it into a long, narrow cylinder.

The Armenian Food Festival, which runs Sept. 6-8, started out as a humble bake sale to fund the building of the church. It has since grown into a multiday outdoor event that includes musical performances, a gift shop and an expansive, ever-growing menu of Armenian entrees, sides, desserts, beer and wine.

"In addition to it being a major fundraiser for the church, it's also bringing Armenian culture and history to Richmond and making sure people know about us, everything about us," says Leiza Bouroujian, a committee chairwoman and festival organizer. "We wanted to make sure to give back to the community by exposing them to our wonderful cuisine that we're very proud of."

  • Ash Daniel

Lilly Bouroujian Thomas, Leiza's sister-in-law and a longtime festival organizer whose mother taught her to cook, says the recipes came from the church's original elders, and had already been passed down for generations before the festival started. She and the cadre of cooks, spanning in age from grandparents to adolescents, are protective and loyal to the recipes, while remaining open to adaptations, like folding the phyllo sheets in half during the bourma-making process to prevent rips.

And the preparation will continue through the final day of the festival. Once the team finishes the desserts — roughly 2,500 of each variety — they'll move on to other tasks, like marinating meats for kebabs. Beeshee, a fried dough with syrup, will make its debut on the menu this year, and the hye burger of ground beef and lamb has developed a devoted following. Heaping pots of pilaf, a rice dish with spices and veggies, will continuously make their way from the kitchen to the dining tents throughout the weekend, and she says they anticipate selling out by closing time on Sunday.

Bouroujian Thomas grew up in Lebanon, where her family settled after her grandmother survived the Armenian genocide of the early 1900s. When she arrived in Richmond, the concept of a food festival was foreign but exciting to her, so she was eager to get involved and help cook. In 1994, when her beloved mentor Virginia Ashjian Greene fell ill, Bouroujian Thomas took on more responsibility and became a driving force in the kitchen.

'She was so sick, she said 'Lilly, I want to give you my food festival books. I know you can do this,'" she says. "Every time I think about it, I get goose bumps. I still have her books."

Armenian Food Festival
St. James Armenian Church
843 Pepper Ave.
Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. - 9 p.m.
Sunday noon - 5 p.m.

Thursday, August 29, 2019

Closing Time

Pearl Raw Bar will serve its final oysters this Sunday.

Posted By on Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 4:56 PM

Make way for a new restaurant in the Fan. Pearl Raw Bar, which has been serving up an extensive, seafood-heavy menu with a focus on oysters for six years, recently announced that it will close its doors this weekend.

According to a press release from Richmond Restaurant Group, which owns and operates Pearl, an “exciting new concept” is in the works for the space. No word yet on what that’ll be, but we hear it’s something that isn’t already in the group’s purview.

You’ve got two more chances at happy hour, which runs 4-7 p.m. on weekdays, and two more shots at brunch, served 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Pearl will serve its final rounds of seafood platters and cocktails on the night of Sunday, Sept. 1, though the press release says the restaurant “will remain open for all private parties that have been previously booked in the Vintage room.”

Monday, August 26, 2019

Any 'Wich Way

RVA Sandwich Week kicked off on Monday, Aug. 26.

Posted By on Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 3:10 PM

Do you prefer chips or fries with your sandwich? How about $100 to spend on Amazon?

For Style’s annual Sandwich Week, 15 area restaurants are offering special sandwiches for $5-6. Try at least three of them, have your servers sign off on your passport and then turn the sheet in to have your name entered in a drawing for the aforementioned gift card.

At the Flyin’ Pig in Midlothian you’ll find a hearty breakfast sandwich laden with smoked brisket, an over-easy egg, American cheese, pico de gallo and mayo. In Manchester, Camden’s Dogtown Market offers up the veggie-heavy Viet Baguette, featuring hummus, fried eggplant and roasted and pickled vegetables. The Camel, located in the Fan, embraces the carnivore with a turkey Rueben, an Italian melt and a chicken cordon bleu sandwich. The best bang for your buck is either the $6 fried chicken thigh sandwich at Burgerworks in Glen Allen, or the $6 Cleopatra at Secret Sandwich Society, a caprese-inspired meal served with chips and pickles.

Other participating restaurants include Beauvine Burger Concept, Industrial Taphouse, McCormack’s Big Whisky Grill, Metro Bar and Grill, New York Deli, Potbelly Sandwich Shop, Sedona Taphouse, Sticks Kebob Shop and Wood and Iron Gameday Restaurant and Bar.

Thursday, August 15, 2019

Helping Hands

After Ita's Food Truck was totaled in a highway crash, friends created a GoFundMe campaign.

Posted By on Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 6:15 PM

When Kristina Melendez-Thompson posted to Facebook last Saturday afternoon, she was full of gratitude. She thanked a list of strangers, friends and first responders, and wrote that she was “lucky and blessed to be alive.”

Melendez-Thompson survived a highway crash in her Puerto Rican food truck and walked away with only minor injuries. The vehicle itself, which rolled twice after a tire suddenly blew, was totaled, leaving its contents in disrepair.

Shortly after the crash, a family friend created a GoFundMe campaign to help Melendez-Thompson rebuild the family business. As of Thursday evening, donations reached more than $6,000.

Ita’s, a cheerful-looking truck covered in a rainbow of tropical-style flowers, could be found at events and festivals, plus breweries, business parks and farmers markets. The menu features meat and vegan empanadas, fried plantains and the vegetarian rice dish arroz con gandules.

Monday, August 5, 2019

In Season

The owners of Grisette hope a rotating menu and accessible prices will make the new restaurant stand out in Church Hill.

Posted By on Mon, Aug 5, 2019 at 2:21 PM

When chef Donnie Glass says he wants to use every part of the animal, he isn't kidding, which is why you'll find pig tails on the menu at Grisette, opening soon in Church Hill. Cooked low and slow before being deep-fried and served with honey, benne seeds, chilies, scallions and house-made pickles, the tail isn't the cute little curlicue you may be picturing — it's a long, hefty piece of meat with a bone running through the middle, cut into three or four pieces. The size and texture are similar to those of a chicken wing, and you eat it like corn on the cob.

Co-owners Donnie and Megan Glass, who met at the Charlottesville restaurant Public Fish and Oyster in 2015 and got married two years later, both know their way around a kitchen. Megan was recently a line cook at Lemaire, but her dining experience also includes front-of-the-house, so she's taking the lead as general manager while Donnie's at the helm as chef. They've also partnered with Andy McClure, who owns several Charlottesville restaurants and Citizen Burger Bar in Carytown.

The 50-seat restaurant, which the Glasses say was designed to look and feel like their own living room, will serve a meticulously curated menu of Southern French-inspired dishes with seasonal, local ingredients. They define local as anything within a day's drive, and when something is out of season it's off the menu. You won't be served cabbage in summer or tomatoes in winter, and the selection will change weekly.

Those tails, an often neglected cut of the pig, represent the type of cooking Donnie wants to bring to Grisette.

"While it's easy to cook somebody a duck breast or a rib-eye and make a beautiful sauce and put it on a plate, it's far more challenging to go to the farmers market, buy five ducks from Free Union Grass Farm, and say 'How am I going to make 100 dishes out of five ducks?'" he explains.

So how does he do that? By using the skin, fat, bones, necks, legs, thighs and breasts, while also incorporating "what's in surplus," like produce, legumes and grains.

"It can be done, but it's difficult. I think it's more fun," he says. "It's more fun than buying a case of duck breasts, having them sent to you and all you're doing is marinating them, scoring them, searing them and serving them. That's easy."

They've been tinkering with the opening menu for weeks, swapping ingredients in and out as farms' produce availability changes. Last week, the menu included a tomato tart with a green salad, goat cheese and black pepper tortellini, a summer bean salad with maitake mushrooms and steak frites with bearnaise. A lightly sweet foie gras eclair will be available as an opening special, and dessert will always be some sort of house-made pie with ice cream from Gelati Celesti. All breads and pastries will be made in-house, along with sauces, pickles, jams and preserves.

With the exception of a shareable charcuterie smorgasbord for $29, everything on the menu will cost less than $20, which the Glasses say was intentional. As young professionals who live in the neighborhood and love going out to eat, they wanted to create a space for people like them. Casual dress is welcome, Donnie says, and they hope Grisette becomes a regular go-to spot rather than a special occasion destination. Keeping the bar accessible is a big part of that.

Wines cost $9 or less by the glass, around $50 per bottle, and guests can pick a liqueur to build their own spritz. Classic-inspired cocktails, crafted by bar manager Caleb Donovan, who comes to Grisette after a lengthy stint behind the bar at Can Can Brasserie, won't exceed $10.

"We really want to cultivate a vibe where you can come in in shorts and a T-shirt and get a $4 beer or $8 glass of wine and hang out," Donnie says.

Grisette's doors haven't officially opened yet, but the owners say it'll be any day now. Keep an eye on Facebook and Instagram for updates.

3119 E. Marshall St.
Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays

Binge on Bivalves for National Oyster Day

Posted By on Mon, Aug 5, 2019 at 10:02 AM

Today is National Oyster Day, so check your favorite spot for specials. The Boathouse and Saltbox Oyster Co. are offering half-priced oysters, and a handful of Richmond’s restaurants, such as Lemaire, Alewife, Aloi, Perch, the Savory Grain and Shagbark, are donating a portion of proceeds from oyster sales to the Virginia Oyster Shell Recycling Program. The statewide program, managed by the Virginia Commonwealth University Rice Rivers Center, collects shell waste from businesses and the public and diverts them back to the Chesapeake Bay for oyster reef restoration.

The Boathouse was one of the first Richmond restaurants to feature a private-label oyster on its menus, and its parent company Richmond Housepitality has gone all in on the concept. Now every Boathouse location offers five custom oysters from different parts of the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic ocean. Each oyster is grown by a different producer, designed to fit a particular flavor profile.

Simply named North, South, East, West and Salt, these oysters vary in their mix of the key oyster flavor elements: sweetness, salinity and minerality. The star is the West. Raised in the Piankatank River by Chapel Creek Oyster Co., the West is a particularly well-balanced blend of ocean and salt flavors, with a rich, almost buttery finish. It’s featured in the Boathouse’s oyster shooters, which are available with tequila, vodka, beer or sake, and it’s available fried with a side of chipotle remoulade.

Concerned about sticking to #MeatlessMonday? Don’t fret — because oysters don’t have a central nervous system, many vegans include them in their diets. Indulge guilt-free, and help rebuild the Chesapeake Bay.

Friday, July 26, 2019

The Black Waffle

Ajay Brewer’s latest venture combines milkshakes and waffles while representing the culture of Blackwell.

Posted By on Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 2:45 PM

The first black waffle attempt came out cakey. And if you’re talking technicalities, it was a Belgian waffle.

“No, these are black waffles,” reiterates Josh Reed, co-owner and chef of Brewer’s Waffles, which opened July 14.

He gives an abrupt chuckle, but he’s serious. His combination of multiple recipes and final product — tried and tested by expert critics, commonly known as his wife and son — is an ode to Blackwell, a predominantly black South Side neighborhood Reed says faces culture erasure.

Ajay Brewer, owner of Brewer’s Cafe and Brewer’s Waffles, encourages him to continue. He points to the back of the t-shirt worn by investor and longtime friend James Harris that says “A Better Waffle, A Better Experience.”

“We’re going to make it something bigger than a waffle,” Reed says, reflecting on Belgium’s colonization and bloody massacres in the Congo. “So many people are profiting off the destruction of our culture that we got to set examples that we’re able to profit off the uplift of our culture.”

So yes, Reed says, Brewers Waffles are black waffles. And a conversation starter. The Well, an art space adjacent to the waffles and milkshakes shop, is both a gallery representing local artists and a platform for public forums on difficult topics, such as mental health and trauma.

For Reed, Brewer and Harris, this nook on Hull Street serves an important purpose: It gives people an excuse to not leave South Side.

“Food equalizes it all.” Brewer says. “Put it in front of me. We’re going to all eat at the same time.”

Reed nods. Constructing the menu was about simplicity and keeping it approachable. While Brewer prefers a classic plain waffle, Reed opts for his secret menu and makes a waffle sandwich. Harris goes for the Munford, which features Granny Smith apples, craisins, lemon zest and caramel.

There’s the option to build your own, starting with a traditional, cornbread or gluten-free waffle. Toppings include things like vegan sausage, fried eggs and peanut butter cups, with both savory and sweet sauces such as a Nutella drizzle and Hollandaise.

When it came to naming the waffles, Brewer wanted to celebrate Richmond.

“It was first around the streets, but some of these streets are named after some pretty shitty people,” Brewer says. “If you owned slaves, I don’t give a fuck about what you did in life, you’re not a good person.”

Ultimately, he settled on Richmond Public Schools, such as Blackwell, Holton and Armstrong. Don’t expect to find Thomas Jefferson on the list.

As for the milkshakes, the ice cream is sourced from Scoop RVA, with mix-ins including fruit, Snickers bars and Cinnamon Toast Crunch. Reed’s next step, inspired by the concept of taking a box of doughnuts into work, is to make mini waffles available by the dozen.

Brewer turns around his “The Flash” hat, which he borrowed from his son that morning, and adds that family remains central to everything they do. In an Instagram promotional video, Brewer turns to his son, Parker, and says “You’re going to be a huge part of it.”

Parker is a Brewer’s Waffles partner, owns six candy stands and plans to bike 40 miles to raise money for the Blackwell parent teacher association. He’s 4 years old.

As Brewer looks around, he counts eight black-owned businesses on this block alone and grins.

So what does that mean for them?


Brewer’s Waffles

1311 Hull St.


Mondays - Thursdays 7 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Fridays 7 - 12 a.m.

Saturdays 8 - 12 a.m.

Sundays 7 a.m. - 10 p.m.


Thursday, July 18, 2019

Raising the Bar

Recluse Roasting Project wants to make coffee more engaging.

Posted By on Thu, Jul 18, 2019 at 4:00 AM

“For some weird reason, ever since I was 12, I wanted to open my own cafe,” says Aimee Biggerstaff, one of those people whose passion for her work is palpable.

She could wax poetic all day about crafting and drinking the perfect cup of coffee, and after more than 15 years in the industry, she’s well on her way to living out those plans she detailed in her middle school journal.

Along with business partners Russell Durfee and Jack Fleming, who’s also her romantic partner, Biggerstaff is in the process of building out the space for Recluse Coffee Bar and Roastery, a European-style coffee shop in Scott’s Addition. It won’t be the cozy, “Friends”-style venue with plush couches and communal coffee tables Biggerstaff envisioned in the ‘90s, but it will be something Richmond hasn’t seen before.

Called a coffee bar, Recluse will be exactly that — a bar, but with coffee. Guests will sidle up to the semi-circle-shaped counter and order the same way they would at a traditional bar. Baristas will interact directly with guests, much like bartenders, using multiple tablets to run cards instead of a stationary cash register. Seating will be minimal, with standing room only at the bar and a couple high tables next to the windows.

“We wanted to see if we could do something different, have things set up in a way where if it was a quick takeaway service it’ll be fast and out the door, but also offer someone a beautiful service for here,” Biggerstaff says. “You can stand at the bar and read the paper, or stand there and have a conversation with someone else who’s at the bar. We want to try to create a space that’s more about engagement.”

Biggerstaff says she and her partners were inspired by cafes they visited in their travels, and they’ve seen this approach work in cities all over the world.

“It’s this throwback, that simple idea of walking up to a bar and the bartender greets you, without this whole to-do of lining up,” she says. “We also know, having been in the industry for so long, that it’s hard to break customers of habits. We’ve been taught to line up, so it’s going to be on us and our experience to really confidently guide people through the space.”

The goal is for the bar, at 2904 W. Moore St., to open its doors in September. The owners are doing the hands-on work themselves — Biggerstaff learned to pour concrete a few hours before interviewing for this story — while still roasting and distributing coffee around town.

Bags of Recluse Roasting Project beans are available online and at local retailers such as the Butterbean Market and Cafe, Union Market and Outpost Richmond, and you can find brewed cups of coffee at Pomona Plants and Sugar and Twine. The team also sells beans, beverages and Recluse merchandise at the pop-up farmers market at the Veil Brewing Co. — they’ll be there every other Sunday from July 28 to September 22.

Recluse Roasting Project

1310 Altamont Ave.


Saturday, July 13, 2019

Smoothie Spinoff

A year after launching her food truck, Pulp Fiction owner Ruslana Remennikova opens a brick-and-mortar shop with coffee, sandwiches and pastries.

Posted By on Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 6:27 PM

Ruslana Remennikova has been told she walks like a ’90s era Uma Thurman — specifically the “Kill Bill Vol. 2” Uma, who punches out the coffin’s roof after being buried alive and proceeds to stalk angrily through the cemetery’s shadows.

But Remennikova’s gait is more of a bounce. Each step across the checkerboard tiles of her recently opened business venture, Pulp Fiction Lakeside, reads as intentional.

It’s how she leads her life. She’s a Quentin Tarantino fan because his movies follow that same purposeful energy. Despite this, Remennikova says Pulp Fiction is about her dream of selling cold-pressed juice, not the movie.

“[It’s] what I imagined the juice line to be called,” she says.

It’s been more than a year since she left her corporate chemist job to jumpstart a tinted-teal smoothie truck of the same name. Inspired by the tucked-away coffee scene in Barcelona, she found the perfect spot in January and knew a brick-and-mortar shop was the next step.

“This is the vision that I saw,” she says, reflecting on the five-month renovation. “There’s some magic in there that I can’t explain.”

The wood is an homage to Remennikova’s love for earthy tones, while a white penny tile wall accentuates the 420 square-foot shop. When she first found it, there was only a double oven on the left-hand side.

Whether it be the items on the menu or the European-inspired succulent plants that rest atop the perimeter of wooden shelves, everything has a story.

“I went to Sardinia with two friends and worked on an olive field for three weeks,” Remennikova says. “It was more than just an olive oil project. It was ‘How do we interact with each other? How are we helping each other? What are we really doing?’”

In comes the Sardinian, a tomato spread, anchovy and olive combination on a New York bagel. The Israeli, complete with hummus, olives and feta, speaks to her Jewish background while the Ukrainian, with provolone cheese and kielbasa, honors her family’s migration from Eastern Europe.

The coffee, which includes a signature Ru’s Brew, is supplied by Legacy Roasting Co., while locally baked pastries come from WPA Bakery. Her personal go-to smoothie, Legacy — containing spinach, golden raisins and bananas — is inspired by her father, with Bear Claw being a fan-favorite due to the espresso beans and gritty texture.

Although smoothies remain at its core, Pulp Fiction Lakeside values balance. She says having a healthy relationship with food is about owning what you eat.

“We support doughnuts,” she says excitedly, noting their presence on the menu. “I actually want to put that on a shirt.”

Reflecting on the past few years, she attributes her strength and growth to her dad, who died shortly after they completed an Olympic-length triathlon in 2016.

“It devastated me. I felt like I was robbed,” Remennikova says of losing her best friend. “But I always say he’s around because he is … I’m living through his energy.”

Dealing with adversity provides everyone with a decision, Remennikova says, have a negative outlook or improve your quality of life. She chooses the latter every day, saying it’s the route her dad, a funny, light-up-the-room guy, would choose — perhaps with an apple fritter in hand.

“I’m not a celebrity,” she says. “But I just feel like me providing a healthy smoothie makes someone happy. Or a yummy Mediterranean wrap. ‘Whoa, this is great, thanks.’ OK, that’s already a good response, and I’m happy with that.”

Pulp Fiction Lakeside

5411 Lakeside Ave.


Mondays - Fridays 7 a.m.- 3 p.m.

Saturdays 8 a.m. - 4 p.m.


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