Style Weekly
Short Order
Barrel Thief and Magnolia Wine can help you toast the unfortunate closing of Karsen's in Carytown.
by Deveron Timberlake
Barrel Thief Wine Shop & CafAc: This trimmer version of the Short Pump mother ship has the banquettes and bottles, the slightly upscale menu and the fresh-taste mission that caught on with local wine lovers right away. Starters include olives, dips, country pA›tAc, salads, cheeses, small plates such as grilled Moroccan vegetables or beef tenderloin with wild mushroom ragu ($14), and panini ($7-$12) served on Flour Garden bread with Manakintowne produce. Wines and microbrews sell at retail prices. Lunch Tuesday-Sunday; dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Wine shop daily. 5805 Patterson Ave. 612-9232. NS www.barrelthiefwine.com.
Magnolia's Wine Bar & Bistro: A dozen items on the tasting menu ($9-$14) include cumin-dusted diver scallops and a fig cocktail with lamb chops and potato gaufrettes. Chef Chris Savage also serves classic chicken and beef entrees and other wine-worthy fare at this new bistro attached to Village Fine Wine. The patio is cigar-friendly. Inside, the cafAc is smoke-free and full-service with small tables and a sleek bar. Lunch or brunch, dinner and bar open daily. 7021 Three Chopt Road in the Village Shopping Center. 673-9463.
Karsen's Goodbye: It wasn't the competition, though Mezzanine a few doors down has been getting a lot of attention since opening. It was internal and turnover problems that hurt the charming newcomer Karsen's in Carytown, according to former staff members. The place closed along with the year last week, ending a short run that followed a long build-out by a high-profile team of local food pros. The building is for sale or lease, and a new restaurant is expected.
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