Pitchford is not complaining, with a steady stream of customers bypassing the Subway franchise next door for a chance to line up at the counter and ask for a famous Ghetto Burger, a sizzling hand-patty on slices of white bread thick enough to make the preternaturally-svelte-"Subway Diet"-Jared teary-eyed. But back to the memories. Pitchford remembers his mother, cooking for him and his 10 sisters and two brothers; in a large black cast-iron skillet she turned patties of beef that would eventually end up on white bread with government cheese. For his version, all Pitchford did was thicken the bread and add some greenery. And thus, the Ghetto Burger was born, not in the mind of some smirking jokester, but in the heart of a man who truly appreciates the heritage from which it comes. Now available right over the river. Wayne Melton
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