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December 19, 2007 Special/Signature Issues » Purveyors of Taste

Enigma in Red 

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Good things come to those who wait, especially if they want seriously good Italian food. We finally got ours when Ed Vasaio (pictured at Mamma 'Zu in 2003) a man who knows exactly what to do with tomatoes and garlic, made us come to Oregon Hill in the '90s to find out. Maybe it's something in the wine or maybe it's the basil he grows out back, but Mamma 'Zu, along with Edo's Squid on Harrison Street, made all of us -- doctors, governors, students and movie stars — members of the cult of Ed.



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