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March 17, 2010 Special/Signature Issues » The State of the Plate

Best Menu: CafAc Rustica 

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We love the surprises that spring from chef and owner Andy Howell's culinary imagination. Just when we think we know every schnitzel in the Rustica playbook, he throws in a Portuguese seafood stew with chorizo, or a heartwarming Scottish tweed kettle of salmon and rutabaga. Even the simpler meals demand attention: Big strip steaks arrive sizzling hot in skillets, slathered in blue cheese-shallot butter. And when Howell's trademark wry humor makes it onto the menu page, our experience is all the richer.

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