Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Short Order

Curry Craft wants to bring a modern touch to Richmond Indian food.

Posted By on Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 4:00 AM

click to enlarge Owner Mel Oza brings a new kind of Indian restaurant to Carytown, with expansion plans in the offing for Curry Craft. - SCOTT ELMQUIST
  • Scott Elmquist
  • Owner Mel Oza brings a new kind of Indian restaurant to Carytown, with expansion plans in the offing for Curry Craft.

There's a difference between what Mel Oza is doing at the new Curry Craft Indian Restaurant and Bar, and the longstanding Farouk's House of India a block west in Carytown. Oza is appreciative of the 38-year longevity of his neighbor, but hopes to bring "a modern, almost kitschy" feel that contrasts and updates the tradition.

"This is upscale casual, with a late-night industry bar," Oza says of Curry Craft. "The food is Indian but with today's style and service." Staff members dress in black shirts and denim, and music is tuned to Midival Punditz on Pandora. It's perhaps reminiscent of the neighborhood Indian places in London, Oza says, and there's room for the concept to grow.

While an ABC permit is pending, Curry Craft is experimenting with menu and hours in the 42-seat space. Oza, formerly associated with Short Pump's Indian jewel Lehja, had been trying to find a Carytown location for a while and bought the assets of Bonvenu earlier this year. He made decorative changes that show off stainless steel accents and subtle art, but is mostly focused on fare that intends to show "finesse and complexity," he says, with Madras curry sauce and seafood among the starting points.

For now, luncheon service is Friday through Sunday, and dinner is offered nightly. Watch for changes as the business finds its following. 2915 W. Cary St. 358-0350. currycraft.com.

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Now Serving

Portrait House: House-ground burgers, pizza, sliders and craft beer at this new Carytown pub, open nightly. 2907 W. Cary St. 278-9800.

Deep Run Roadhouse: Brisket, burritos, barbecue, and hearty snacks and sides at Paul Hubbard's new Tex-Mex counter-service and comfort-food spot. Lunch and dinner daily. 12379 Gayton Road. 740-6301. deeprunroadhouse.com.

Dinamo: Intimate cafe for pho, pasta, sandwiches, with breakfast to dinner Monday-Saturday. 821 W. Cary St.

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Have a tip about the Richmond restaurant scene? Send it to shortorder@styleweekly.com.

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